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Buzz Szarek <buzz@toast.net> wrote:
> Ok, I've got my filters in from Memphis Equipment.
> I know I'm gonna need 22 quarts of oil.
> I know it's supposed to be SAE 30 weight (right? brand / weight
> recommendations?).
> I don't have my manuals yet so could someone walk me thru the process?
I assume that you're asking about an M35-like truck, since you wrote
"22 quarts". I just did an oil change in mine (an M109A3 shop van,
with an LDT-465-1C engine) for the first time a week or two ago, so
I'll take a stab at it.
First, note that there are two oil drain plugs (the oil pan has two
sumps), and you need to drain both of them. If you get a 5-gallon
drain pan from the local auto parts store, drain the smaller sump
first, then empty your drain pan into a bucket, and then drain the
larger sump. The manual says to replace the plastic seals (it calls
them "spacers") on the drain plugs, but you can probably skip that
step if they appear to be in good shape (after all, you'll certainly
know it if they leak :-).
Ok, the manual says you should next drain the oil filter body through
the drain plug on the side underneath the rear filter, but a lot of
folks recommend letting the truck sit overnight (or longer) so that
the filter bodies and oil cooler can drain back into the oil pan
(which you then re-drain). I did this, but it turns out that on my
truck, the drain plug was replaced with a little spigot to allow you
to draw oil samples for testing. If your truck also has that
modification (I've heard it's common), you should be able to attach a
length of hose to the spigot and use it to drain the filter bodies
into a drain pain on the ground without making a mess. It would
probably still be less messy if you let the truck sit at least
overnight after draining the filter body, so that the filters can drip
dry.
Once the filter bodies are drained, you remove each one by loosening
the big bolt on top, and remove the outer can and the filter element.
Thoroughly clean out the inside of each can, and replace the gaskets
that seal the bottom edges of the cans with one of the gaskets
provided with the filters. It should be the wide, flat one. It might
look too large to fit, but it pops into a groove around its outer edge
to hold it in place. Coat each gasket with a light coat of clean oil
before installing it. Inspect the rest of the seals in each can;
hopefully they're OK, because spares are not provided with the
filters from Memphis.
Now, put the elements in the cans and bolt them back in place. Torque
the center bolts to 60 lb-ft.
Finally, make sure you have everything buttoned back up, and pour 22
qts (5.5 gallons) into the filler hole on top of the valve cover.
It's a lot easier than it sounds!
I used Chevron SAE 30 oil, which was cheap at Target. It took a while
to pour in 22 bottles of oil! :-) Many folks recommend Shell Rotella T
SAE 30 oil, and I plan to use that next time. It comes in 1-gallon
bottles, and you'll need 5.5 of them. I bought some at the local Pep
Boys for my new HMMWV.
Good luck, and let me know if any of my instructions were unclear.
P.S. Please note that I believe that the fuel filter elements I got
from Memphis are not correct replacements for the truck (though they
look close enough to fool you if you don't carefully inspect how
they're supposed to seal, but don't...), and I have been too busy to
follow up on this with Wix yet. The oil filter replacements from
Memphis look just fine, however.
-- Mark J. Blair, KE6MYK <mblair1@home.net> PGP 2.6.2 public key available from http://pgp.ai.mit.edu/ Web page: http://www.qsl.net/ke6myk/ DO NOT SEND ANY UNSOLICITED COMMERCIAL EMAIL TO THIS SITE
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