*This message was transferred with a trial version of CommuniGate(tm) Pro*
That's what I suspected, Bryan,
The only reason that cord has a neutral is because the
coil that operates the contactor is 120 volts. If you
could find a 220 volt coil you could rewire the
control box and drop the neutral. As it sets the
whole compressor is a 120/220 volt unit, that means it
needs BOTH. Even if the motor is running on either.
You'll find that on welders, too, where the main power
is 220 but the blower or wire feed motor is 120. Also
on dryers or kitchen ranges where there's a clock or
lights that are 120 volt. The neutral HAS to be in
there.
Joe
--- Bryan Rupp <ruppster@alaskalife.net> wrote:
> *This message was transferred with a trial version
> of CommuniGate(tm) Pro*
>
> I took some time this evening to investigate how the
> motor was
> wired and had to scratch my head for a few minutes.
> I would
> have pulled the compressor apart in the first place
> before
> bothering the list but my wife and I are in the
> middle of
> moving to another unit at the moment as our current
> unit is
> to be renovated next month and the boss has told me
> I'm not
> allowed to play with my new toy till I get
> everything moved out
> of the basement. Needless to say I'm in trouble, as
> usual, for
> wasting this evening. :-) Anyhow, since I have
> gotten several
> different answers curiosity got the best of me and I
> had to
> figure out what I've got. I cleaned the data label
> on the
> motor some more. It stated it was made for use with
> 115 or
> 230 single phase, not 230 two phase like I thought.
> When I
> opened the control box I found four wires coming in
> from the
> electrical cord. One each of black, red, white, and
> green.
> Inside the box is a three pole contactor/circuit
> breaker used
> to control the off/on when the air pressure in the
> tank is to
> high or gets low. The black and red wires from the
> electrical
> cord go to the first and second poles, L1 and L2, of
> the
> contactor on the input side. The white wire goes to
> a seperate
> terminal on the contactor. The green wire is
> grounded to the
> metal of the control box. There are only two black
> wires
> exiting the box going to the motor. They come from
> the L1 and
> L2 output of the contactor. Now I just need to get
> base CE to
> install a 230 single phase outlet in the garage of
> the base
> housing unit we're moving in to. :-) At least I'm
> getting a
> garage out of this move to play in. The unit we are
> leaving
> doesn't have a garage and trying to work on a truck
> when it's
> 20 below is not all that fun when your fingers keep
> freezing
> to the bolts.
>
> Thanks for all the help,
> Bryan
> Elmendorf AFB, Alaska
>
>
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This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Sun Jul 02 2000 - 23:51:27 PDT