From: Dave Cole (DavidCole@tk7.net)
Date: Mon Jul 08 2002 - 08:35:17 PDT
This is true with the 5 ton front winch also. Once in gear and under load, the front engage/disengage lever will not move. So the only real option is to
control everything from the cab which is a lot safer anyway. After winching I try and run the cable up near the winch and then wind the rest in by hand (with
the engine off) before engaging the drum lock.
Regarding shear pins; the 5 ton manual I have states that only the proper aluminum shear pins should be used. Since I didn't have an proper aluminum shear
pins available, and I didn't want to lose virtually all protection with a steel pin, I opted to use soft aluminum rod I obtained from a local home store. I think it
was $5.00 for 6 feet of soft aluminum rod. I just used a large wire cable cutter to shear off some proper lengths of rod, drilled a hole in each end for cotter
pins and I am winching again. I made up several pins and threw them in a plastic baggie with some extra cotter pins. These now reside in the glove box.
The aluminum is very soft and I figure that if I shear one of those pins I'm pulling way too hard anyway since I'm only dragging heavy logs out of a pile right
now. So far so good. I think that if I shear one of these pins I would just double line the winch with a snatch block before looking for a harder aluminum pin.
I really don't want to be anywhere near a used 5/8 steel cable that is under 20,000 lbs of stress anyway.
Dave
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
It pulled the cable and chain and everything in while I ran around to
shift the lever in the cab and when it was tight enough it sheered the pin.
I couldn't do a thing to loosen it and had to take out the top guard and the
side guard just to get it a little loose to shift it out.
David, what was I doing wrong? When there is no weight on the cable the
shifter goes in and out pretty easy most of the time, but the minute there
is just a little pull, forget shifting it out.
>
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