Re: [MV] M37 Engine problems (My Life)

From: Jon Shoop (shoop19@brick.net)
Date: Sat Sep 21 2002 - 21:11:07 PDT


I agree,,,,,,,we removed every nut and bolt from the M114s we did a couple
of years ago....we applied antiseize to every new one that went back
in......My friend Mike tells me that the guy who buys my vehicles at the
bankruptcy auction will appreciate it.....

Jon

----- Original Message -----
From: "Barry" <btuttleman@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Saturday, September 21, 2002 2:40 PM
Subject: Re: [MV] M37 Engine problems (My Life)

> this is one of the reasons to NEVER use tap extractors; they will only
> work if the broken stud/bolt is not stuck very hard anyway; but when u
> break the extractor off (and it happens ALL the time), you know have an
> extremely hard piece of metal that is impossible to drill - EDM or one
> of the older tap "blasters" will be necessary, unless the extractor ex-
> tends out of the block, at which point a nut is tack welded to the ex-
> tractor and manually turned out. if the extractor had never been used
> in the first place, the broken stud could have been removed fairly
> easily (for someone who does this all the time) by carefully center-
> punching and drilling out from small drills up to the tap drill size.
> application of heat (torches) before attempting to remove specialty
> area hardware (such as exhaust hardware that has been continuously
> heated and cooled, forming heat rust which locks everything down) is
> a common practice, but it still takes a good "feel" to read the broken
> part - you CAN tell when it is going to break once you've done this
> enuff. applications of heat and some penetrating oils can well assist
> the mechanic; to PREVENT this next time, LIBERALLY apply ANTI-SEIZE
> compounds (hi-temp in exhaust areas, other high temp engine areas) to
> ALL HARDWARE; this will assist in easy removal when necessary. here's
> the rule: if the hardware does not require Loctite compounds, then it
> should ALWAYS be coated w/ anti-sieze lubricants. this comes from years
> of fabrication/assembly/disassembly in the hi-tech world.
> my friends machine shop sometimes makes a living just removing broken
> hardware out of various parts - anything w/ a broken (left hand) tap
> extractor proved always the most difficult to repair, and eventually
> many had to go to the EDM'er to remove.
> MAKE ANTI-SEIZE COMPOUNDS A NECESSARY ITEM ON YOUR BENCH; get used to
> using it everywhere, and you will avoid this problem.
> tnx,
> barry
> carson city, nv
>
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