From: Ronzo (rojoha@attbi.com)
Date: Mon Nov 18 2002 - 10:44:54 PST
Ted....Thanks for the reply!!
I will try a run at 65-70 MPH for a brief period, but the noise and
howling from under the hood does give me pause.
I'll be seeing some folks at White River Jct., Vermont on Saturday at
the WORLD CLASS Green Mountain Military Vehicle Collectors 1st Annual MV
Flea Market who have both M1010s and other CUCVs that have had some kind of
OD installed and will be talking to a garage tomorrow about re gearing the
diffs for price.
Thanks for the heads up on the (5?) rear main problem....I already have
a leak in the transfer case which I suspect is an age issue and that will be
addressed Wed at my favorite tranny shop.
Today's projects are to find out why:
1) the M1010 only went 'click-click' after the preheat sequence last
night when I tried to go to work, forcing me to abandon my 'baby' for a
backup set of wheels. (Air Temp was 28 Deg F, so I expected no problem).
This AM I found the 'bottom' battery at 11.4 VDC and the 'top' at 12.6
VDC with the headlights on. Still just 'clicks' when the key is turned.
Bottom battery is an April 97 DEKA 1231 PMF, Group 31 with a listed 1250
CCA@ 32D and a CCA of 1075 @ 0 D. Top battery is a lot smaller with the
labels covered by the brackets but looks like a group 24.
RAMster had installed a SPI, Inc. DUVAC II 52000 Series Multi Voltage
Management System as was recommended a couple of months ago on the list
before I bought it, so I suspect the Bottom Battery is just dying (sulfated)
from lack of use over the past couple of years.
Bottom Battery has been on charge for the past couple of hours sucking
20 AH. I will be swapping charger to the Top bat soon.
2) Fixing the horn.... I get a 'clicking' sound from under the dash from
a relay on the fuse block harness that the manual indicates is for the horn.
I have shut off the Blackout Light switches which locks out the horn when
the BO system is activated, and turned the Service Drive lights switch on to
try and get the horn to work, but no joy. Next step looks like pulling the
grille and physically checking the horn and capacitor, then tracing the
wiring.
This is rather a high priority since the local constabulary have taken
an interest in the vacant spot on the windshield which should contain the
small square of paper earned by the fruits of a working horn and $29 paid to
a 'safety' inspection station.
They totally failed to see the humor of my rear window sticker that
clearly states "HORN DOES NOT WORK-----WATCH FOR FINGER".
3) Seeing if I can find out why the truck made an interesting
'SKREEEINNNGG' sound several times on Saturday when I tried to start
it....happened each time I turned the key until I got out and tugged on the
Alternator belt to turn the engine a might. I hope it's just a sticky bendix
from sitting a couple of years. If not, hope for a toasted starter gear,
followed by a (gulp!) bad fly wheel gear missing a tooth or two. Does anyone
know if the 6.2 l engine has a tendency to stop in the same general position
each time? (i.e. 2 o'clock or 4:30....??)
And still gotta prep the M35A2 for winter storage....mothballs (really)
and striking bows and canvas and such. It never seems too end when ya run
Green stuff.
As to PO'ing folks....it seems it is my lot in life. I give everyone the
benefit of the doubt and one shot at sticking me, but only one. There after
everyone I run across will get to hear about how I've been treated by a
vendor who is more concerned about getting my pennies than making me a
repeat customer. My Dad taught me that your word is not given lightly, but
once given is stronger and more binding than any piece of paper. It is the
measure of who YOU are, and how you are judged by real men. Or at least
that's how it was 40 years ago....
Again, thanks for the reply.
Ronzo, Village Cyber Idiot
----- Original Message -----
From: "tedhils" <tedhils@cyber-south.com>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002 11:18 AM
Subject: [MV] CUCVs and M1010s and the Bonneville Land Speed Record
> Ronzo and List-
> As I tell ALL the people that I sell M1008s, 1028s, 1010s and 1031s
to,
> "You can drive these trucks 65-70 MPH with no problem." I have had LOTS
of
> feedback from satisfied customers that drive their trucks at those speeds
> with no troubles. Terry Soden is a prime example... Hey, Terry!
> I drive all my trucks 800-1000 miles before selling them and a large
> portion of that is 65-70 miles per hour. The trucks are actually quieter
at
> 65-70 than they are at 55.
> For the past 1-2 years, we have been putting5 new rear main seals in
all
> the trucks that we sell because some of them will start leaking. That is
> more from age than speed. If you haven't put a new seal in yours, yet, it
> is only a matter of time before you do.
> Now, if you want to drive your 1 1/4 ton 80+ MPH, then you might need
to
> look at a major mechanical change. I would think that re-gearing the
> differentials might be the way to go. The Off-Road Connection in
> Birmingham, AL will re-gear the front and rear axles to 4.10 for $1000.
> Oh, Ronzo, I see from today's list that you have Pi**ed ANOTHER person
> off. Hankie was telling me that you had a certain talent along those
lines.
> :~)
> Ted
>
>
> Ted Hils
> Ted's Trucks 'N Stuff
> Rural Route 2 Box 66H
> Midland City, AL 36350
> 334-983-1092
> Mon-Fri, 8-5 CST
>
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