From: Employee@MilVeh.com
Date: Sun Jun 08 2003 - 12:43:38 PDT
I think my truck must have changed colors at least
once every 6 months since it was new, based on the
thickness of the paint. I know it's over 3/16 thick
in some places. This has been a sanding nightmare,
I've taken off about a large bucket worth of dust and
probably got 25% of the dings filled. Large paint
flakes scraped off and feathered out, but there comes
a time when you have to say enough! Its an old truck,
its never going to be a show piece... its not like a
car paint job.
A good MV paint job on one of these rigs ought to be
where large blems are removed, most dings filled and
smoothed and paint covers well, one or two runs, no
big ... and that is probably twice over the job the
military does and calls passable!
If you have an older truck with lots of layers of
paint, figure 2-3 days of sanding, sanding more
sanding. Go with 80 grit to knock it down quick using
a electric sander (not a belt) and work your way down
to 180 ... close enough. If it was a car I would say
only use 120 wet and dry and finish with 220. But a
MV is more like painting a house. The flat hides a
lot of blems too.
I used 2 gallons of green as the base coat and layed
it on thick (20% cut), figure another quart for black
and a pint or better for brown. The colors, black
and brown, go much further because they are just lay
over the base coat. But, the green goes everywhere
first and you will need a lot of it, under, over,
inside, bed, troop seats, there is a lot to cover with
green!
Black covers nicely, but unless you want gray in about
6 months pay the extra couple of bucks for a good
grade of flat black...and rattle cans won't do near
the nice job as if you ran the black thru your spray
rig.
If you are doing a paint job by yourself, figure a
about 3 hours to spray the truck green. It takes time
to setup, mix, go underneath, fit into corners, etc.
Then there are times you have to wait to tack it up
before continuing too. It all takes time. 3 hours
for laying on green really sounds like a lot, but it
isn't for one guy, even with a good rig.
The TM says to use chalk to outline the pattern, but I
wouldn't't. Better to use a pencil to make the
outline or a flat black rattle can if you are good
enough. Then shoot it with your spray rig.
Final tips: Yes, you can use a hardener, but I
wouldn't't. You can turn flat to semi-gloss doing
that and I doubt you are going to gain much. Forget
fish eye solutions too, waste of money, just clean it
really well. Industrial cleaners work well, if rinsed
thoroughly. If you want to invest in something extra,
make it a rust preventer or sealer!
Bottom line: A clean surface is the key to a lasting
job!
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