Re: [MV] Hank's Status

From: Ed (mojoedd@bellsouth.net)
Date: Sun Sep 25 2005 - 20:35:52 PDT


Way to go Hank!! Take care and be sure to check six!

Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "Henry Fackovec" <hfackovec@easternems.com>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2005 22:57
Subject: [MV] Hank's Status

> Hey all, just an update I have Hank on the phone.
>
> Yesterday he pulled a 16 hour medical evac mission from Fred TX to
> Worton TX. Evaced 85 nursing home evacuees who had been without water,
> food, electricity or clean hygiene for two plus days. Assistance from
> TXGN, they provided fuel for convoy as well as two Blackhawk helos.
>
> Today doing short missions, local to Houston. Eating fresh MRE's for a
> change, not Ron's 10 year old ones.
>
> Lots of MV's down here, Hank out.
>
> Signed
> The other Mrs. Hank
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Military Vehicles Mailing List [mailto:mil-veh@mil-veh.org] On
> Behalf Of Julian Burke
> Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2005 2:57 PM
> To: Military Vehicles Mailing List
> Subject: [MV] CUCV leaks & Glow plug system
>
>
> Well, I see it's time to get out my "Wash & Wear" answers to common CUCV
>
> problems and questions that always pop up but have never read my
> articles
> and postings!!
>
>
> First question: "hile I have you all, here's another CUCV problem.
> What do
> all of
> you other CUCV folks do about a leaky cowl? Whenever it rains, the
> water always comes in through the cowl vents. My floor isn't rusty and
> I would like to keep it that way."
>
> The answer is simple. All CUCV's leak commonly in two places, around
> the
> top-front door gasket and inside the windshield wiper cowl. The roof
> drain
> that ends at the front of the vehicle drops the water right in the door
> gasket and pours to the floor. Replace the door gasket and you will
> also
> have a tighter door fit.
>
> Remove the wiper arms so that you can remove the cowl louver to gain
> access
> inside the windshield cowl. Clean out all debris and wash out if
> possible.
> When dry, caulk all bottom seams with RTV (silicone glue) and this will
> take
> care of 99% of all leaks to the floor.
>
>
> Second question: "I still don't understand how the system knows when
> to
> turn off the glow plugs. Are the glow plugs heating air or water? If
> air,
> what is telling system air is at right temp? What gauge in the dash?
> There
> is no dash gauge in a CUCV other than the wait light."
>
> The person who is asking this question doesn't understand a diesel or
> how it
> works in the first place. It doesn't "know" when to turn off the glow
> plugs
> other than it is only a timer to cycle the plugs. First understand that
> a
> diesel engine runs on compression firing. A diesel engine typically has
> a
> compression ratio of 22.5:1. This means that when the piston comes up
> to
> the end of its' travel, it has squeezed/compressed all air in the
> chamber
> almost 23 times. At this "violent" rate of sudden compression, the
> temperature can be around 800-1500 degrees F. At this moment the
> injector
> sprays (vaporizes in a diesel cloud) in a metered amount of diesel fuel.
>
> This immediately ignites in this compressed atmosphere and forces the
> piston
> down just like in a gasoline engine when spark plug ignites the gas.
> This
> type of compressed ignition is powerful and causes that peculiar "diesel
>
> noise" that all diesel engines have. Every brand of engine has its' own
>
> "signature sound".
>
> Now that you know how a diesel engine runs, I can now answer the
> question. When most diesel engines are cranked (cold) to start them,
> they
> have a little trouble building up temperature critical to initial
> ignition.
> The larger the engine, the harder to start. There are two common ways
> to
> start diesels (three of you include ether) but I will only concentrate
> on
> the most common which is what CUCV's use. The GM 6.2 and the 6.5 liter
> engines have a "precombustion" cup underneath the injector. If you have
> a
> head removed, you will almost not see it because there is a cup/cover
> pressed in flush with the head surface. It has a little slit in it
> about
> 1/4" X 3/8". If you pry this little cup out (about 1 1/2" in diameter)
> you
> will then see this chamber. The injector is mounted (screwed in) at an
> angle and the glow plug is mounted directed below it. The tip of the
> GLOW
> PLUG is just barely in the path of the spray of the injector. Now bear
> in
> mind that if you crank the engine long enough, you will build up
> temperature
> to get the engine to fire but starters don't last that long so it needs
> a
> little help from it's friend, Mr. glow plug. The glow plug turns on and
> the
> tip of it will get red hot to about 1400-1600 degrees F. When this
> happens
> the engine is cranked and the injector will do its' thing and atomize
> the
> fuel and the spray touching the red hot tip of the plug will fire, thus
> starting the engine. When engine is cold, most controllers will turn
> the
> glow plugs back on for brief intervals to reduce excessive smoking in
> the
> exhaust. Most diesel engines until warmed up a little will not have
> complete combustion. BTW, there are no "quick start" glow plugs as
> such.
> This is accomplished by putting a higher voltage on a glow plug to make
> it
> heat up faster. If you put 24 volts on a 12 volt plug, it will heat up
> to
> temperature in only a few seconds. This is how "quick start" systems
> function. To answer this guy's question the glow plug doesn't heat up
> air
> or water. ( How could it anyway?)
>
> To answer the other question of how it knows when to heat up is simple:
> There is a temperature sensor to tell the controller when to turn on.
> As a
> matter of note here, when engine is above somewhere around 120 degrees
> F.,
> engine will start on its' own without the help of the glow plugs. You
> will
> notice the light on the dash will not come on when engine is warm or
> hot.
>
> The engine will start on 3-4 glow plugs in moderate weather so you will
> not
> notice glow plug failure until fall weather so it is a good idea to
> check
> all glow plugs before fall.
>
> I hope this answers these questions at hand. Julian Burke
>
>
>
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