From: captw1 (captw1@yahoo.com)
Date: Thu Apr 20 2006 - 10:07:09 PDT
going with the 6.5 long block is fine, just use the
inj. pump, etc. from your engine and set it up for the
6.5....the 6.5's downfall is the electronic injection
controls on it, so don't bother with that crap...if
you're doing some towing or hauling, install an
external trans. cooler in front of the rad, in series
with the stock cooler, so trans. fluid leaves the
stock cooler, then enters the external cooler, and
from there back to the trans. ...easy install...just
remove the trans. cooler return line from the top of
the left rad tank, take a short piece of 5/16" line,
place a threaded coupler on it, flare one end, and
connect to the rad tank, put an "L" shape bend in it
toward the dr. side of the truck, w/o kinking it,
install one end of rubber cooler line to it and
another to the line you removed from the rad tank,
then connect the other ends of the rubber lines to the
external cooler...you're good to go!
--- Chris Brunner <cjbrunner@optonline.net> wrote:
> I was considering converting the engine in my M1028
> from the current
> 6.2L to a 6.5L - I understand that the 6.5 is a
> stronger engine, and
> considering the type of driving that i do, I wanted
> to price out and
> understand the difficulty of the conversion so that
> in the future I
> could make a better decision.
s
Capt W
Wilf Alexander
Bailieboro, Ontario, Canada
1952 Willys M38CDN jeep
1971 Yamaha 175 Enduro m/c
1967 Mack C95F fire pumper(former Ypsilanti Twp. Mi.)(for sale)
1968 Mack F763ST truck tractor (for sale)
1975 48' drop deck flatbed trailer
1985 Chevrolet C10 6.2L diesel pickup
1985 Chevrolet D30 CUCV M1008 w/winch
1988 Honda Goldwing 1500
1994 Chevrolet Caprice Classic LT1 9C1 police package(former Virginia State Police)
2002 Volkswagen Jetta TDI
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