Re: [MV] FROZEN ENGINE/M38A1

Douglas Greville (dgrev@apollo.ruralnet.net.au)
Wed, 03 Jun 1998 16:41:38 +0930

Ron

The technique below is a last resort, but is not as destructive as
using a sledge hammer.

WARNING: I have not tried this on a motor vehicle engine. Do so
at your own risk.

I have used a very old, aeroplane engine trick to overcome this problem.
(ON a W-975 radial tank engine). On these engines you undo the cylinder
bolts so that the piston is still held in place and the cylinder is
free, it is then forced away from the piston using the technique below.
Motor vehicle engines are constructed the
opposite way and therefore you will be relying on the soundness of the
cylinder head, bolts and gasket.

Get yourself sufficient adaptors so that you can make your grease gun
connect to the spark plug holes on the engine. I would disconnect the
con rods from the crank first and make sure they had some room to move
as you will not want to put the wrong sort of forces on the crank.
If the valves are frozen and you cannot close the valves you may need
to block off the intake and exhaust ports with bolted on steel plates.

Wear plenty of safety gear, especially a face shield, eg. welding mask.
Then start pumping. Be prepared to hear some rather alarming noises, if
possible use one of those flexible tubes on the grease gun so that you
can position youself and your hands in such a way that you are not in
the
"line of fire" should a cylinder head bolt fail or anything else let go!

I have removed 5 rust seized pistons from the tank engine this way and
not one broke - they were however corroded beyond re-use.
Afterwards you will need to clean lots and lots of grease out of the
cylinders.

NEVER get smart and try and use compressed air for any purpose like
this: it is far too dangerous.

Regards
Doug

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dgrev@ruralnet.net.au

Web Armour site at: http://Fast.to/DG

(http://users.hunterlink.net.au/~derf/dga/)

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