Re: [MV] thermostats and overheating

Richard Notton (Richard@fv623.demon.co.uk)
Tue, 23 Jun 1998 13:19:51 +0100

-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Standefer <WillysJeep@worldnet.att.net>
To: mil-veh@skylee.com <mil-veh@skylee.com>
Date: 23 June 1998 05:59
Subject: [MV] thermostats and overheating

>In a recent discussion with a fellow car restorer we got on the subject
>of thermostats. I am of the opinion that thermostats are in a
>vehicle for a reason and should not be removed. I have heard from many
>old-timers that they prefer removing the thermostat for "better cooling"
>and swear that some vehicles overheat with the thermostat in them

Tony and eminent listers,

Thermostats are designed in for a purpose and have the engine run at the
intended temperature which is quite hot being little short of boiling, the
oil is also run therefore at its correct temperature to minimise sludge
formation with the (correct) SAE 30 oils the older engines were designed
for. Commonly the intake manifold (header) is water heated to ensure fuller
vaporisation and correct mixtures whilst possibly alleviating carb icing.

There will always be those vehicles that were near the limit on cooling as
made, but the removal can bring a sackful of woes like rapid cavitation
erosion of the pump impeller and hot-spots caused by the excessive flow
short-circuiting the block since the water takes the line of least
resistance straight from the pump and out of the top hose.

In some installations for arduous duty the T/stat and outlet is re-located
on the rear of the head to ensure flow through the motor eg., RR B Range
straight eights.

In every case I've ever seen another problem is the real culprit and T/stat
removal just covers it up, mis-timed ignition, fuel mixture incorrect, bad
oil pump (inadequate cylinder lube - should have frozen), water pump
impeller corroded, engine block scaled and choked, radiator water passages
scaled and choked, bad T/stat - sticking etc., radiator externally blocked
with years of oily dross or enthusiastically painted with the wrong material
(same thing) and hoses kinked or collapsed internally.

An over-tight re-bore can do it too at idle when the water flow is at its
lowest.

There are a lot of good reports here of your commercial "Water Wetter" in
reducing temperatures in non temperature controlled pre-war thermo-siphon
systems and in obviating hot-spots in the rest, its much favoured by the
vintage racing people.

Just my 2p.

Regards,

Richard
(Southampton UK)

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