From: James Shanks (n1vbn@bit-net.com)
Date: Mon Feb 25 2002 - 22:12:12 PST
My suggestion to Ron was if you leave the truck parked in gear lock the
engine fuel cutoff/shutdown in the out/shutdown position. Remember this is a
manual shutoff the fuel delivery engine compared to shut off the key/switch.
If you shove the shutdown handle in after shutdown and you leave it parked
in gear IT CAN RESTART IF IT ROLLS!!!! Granted it won't run long without the
run switch in the on position but it has enough fuel in the header to go far
enough to run into/over something to do a lot of damage.
James Shanks
MVPA 23128
1998 IMZ 8.103 Russian OD paint job right from the Factory. (Built in the
original plant in Irbit, Siberia, Russia. Comes complete with sidecar.
www.ural.com
1984 HD FLHT-C
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neil E. Amrhein" <neil@compu-powr.com>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2002 9:13 AM
Subject: Re: [MV] multifuel injector problem
> List,
> Joe's original post made me think about something. What is the
> recommended position to leave the shutoff handle. I have seen people push
> them in after the truck stops, but I prefer to leave it pulled out. Is
there
> any harm in this?
>
> Also, if the truck sits awhile, and I have left the handle out (off),
> will the run-away condition be of any concern for me? Or will whatever is
> getting stuck on the other trucks, be stuck in the "off" position on my
> truck? Thus preventing starting altogether?
>
> I don't really plan to leave my truck sit for any great length of
time,
> but you never know, so I thought I'd ask.
>
> --Neil
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <DDoyle9570@aol.com>
> To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
> Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 11:45 AM
> Subject: Re: [MV] multifuel injector problem
>
>
> > In a message dated 2/24/02 8:35:10 AM Central Daylight Time,
> > MVTrucker@aol.com writes:
> >
> > << My M35A2 has been sitting for quite a while and will not start. I fou
nd
> > that
> > the
> > linkage on the side of the injector was stuck in the off position >>
> >
> > Joe,
> > I may be able to help you with this....a copy of TM 9-2910-226-34 Pump,
> Fuel
> > metering and Distributing is handy too.
> > I will start at the beginning, just so I (hopefully) won't omit
anything.
> > In the center of the top of the hydraulic head of the pump is a plug, it
> is
> > surrounded by the fuel distribution lines. Remove the plug. Stand a
soft
> > wood stick up in the hole, and turn engine over while watching stick.
The
> > stick should hop and down, but since you are having a no start
condition,
> it
> > probably won't (If it does, we have other issues to discuss). Remove
> stick,
> > and spray solvent and penetrant in this hole.
> > Take out two screws and remove the engine shut off cover and gasket.
> Verify
> > that the cable from it to handle on dash moves freely.
> > The remove the two screws you have just exposed that hold on the Control
> Unit
> > Retainer (a sorta U-shaped bracket)...if I remember correctly these
screws
> > are safety wired.
> > Remove the Control Unit Retainer, then slide out the fuel control unit
> > assembly. Take care that the small, precisely made, friction fit, T
> shaped
> > piece of metal on the inner end of the shaft doesn't get lost. It is
the
> > plunger sleeve pin, and that is what all this is about.
> > Apply generous amounts of solvent, penetrating oil, etc., to make sure
all
> > these pieces are free to move. Once free, spray with lube.
> > Reassemble fuel control unit into injection pump, being sure to orient
the
> > plunger sleeve pin properly, it should all slide together smoothly and
> > precisely, like reassembling a gun. If you think you need to force
> > something, then you have put something together wrong.
> > Now, using a brass or similar punch, as close in size to the hole on top
> of
> > hydraulic head, rap the plunger a time or two.
> > Repeat test with stick.
> > You may have to repeat the penetrating oil/solvent/pecking/stick test
> process
> > several times before the plunger moves freely.
> > The above steps 90% of the time solves this problem. Occasionally
however
> > the delivery valve sticks. This is access by removing a plug in the
SIDE
> of
> > the hydraulic head. Usually this plug is funny looking (12-16 points),
> older
> > engines this plug is hex shaped.
> > Beware, with the way the pump is oriented in the truck, the delivery
valve
> > and its spring will want to fall out onto the ground, chassis,
> > whereever....this would not be good as these delivery valves are
precisely
> > matched to the hydraulic heads. So you won't replace just this tiny
> valve,
> > but rather the entire, expensive hydraulic head.
> > Using aerosol solvent/penetrating oil, make sure that the delivery valve
> is
> > not sticking.
> > Reassemble all the things we have discussed.
> > Truck should now start. However, any time I have fooled with the
> injection
> > pump, or a truck that has not been started in a while, I prefer to
remove
> the
> > air intake mushroom, and have a helper stand by with steel plate or
piece
> of
> > plywood to shut off air flow in the event the engine tries to run away,
or
> > the shut off won't shut down.
> > Hope this helps,
> > David Doyle
> >
> >
> > copyright 2002, David Doyle
> >
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> >
> >
>
>
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>
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