From: Stephen & Jeanne Keith (cckw@comcast.net)
Date: Sun Jan 11 2004 - 13:33:05 PST
Well you know me Ron:
I have two, the ROD (Raymond [NH] Ordnance Depot) 42x60 $12,500 kit
delivered
and the POD (Pembroke [NH] Ordnance Depot 30x60 $30,000 turnkey
Never buy a kit! The ROD is one and took me forever to build! Had 4 barn
raising partys and fewer and fewer friends came.....
Electric: 200 Amp service is plenty. The compressor is 30 amps, the welder
is 30
or 50 amps, etc. Just get a box with lots of slots
The POD has 8" packed crushed gravel and is fine with the 4" concrete on it.
The ROD has a full foundation (4') with lots of expensive fill and 8" of
crushed
gravel and 4" of concrete. Due to the full foundation and the fact that is
set for
one year before concrete, the ROD has fewer cracks (minor) in the floor.
As you know the POD is a Morton Building and looks a lot nicer than the ROD
(AKA Chicken barn looking galvanized barn). The ROD will however outlast the
POD. The POD is a pole barn and in 50 years when the posts rot off, I will
have
a dirt blanket. The ROD will last until a tornado (unlikely) or a bad
hurricane (possible)
MAKE SURE YOU CHECK THE SET-BACKS IN THE TOWN OF CHOICE!
At the ROD, I had to be 25' from the lot line. That was tough! Because of
that, I have to
do a Y turn to get the deuce into it.
DO NOT use an oil or kero fired salamander. Use propane for a space heater.
Cordon
off a smaller area as a work area but remember when you take a 6 ton chunk
of M35
into it, it will suck up the heat for hours!. I use a localized propane
space heater with
blower to blow on me where I am working.
DO NOT paint in the barn. Look at Larrys
Morton in NH (POD) http://www.mortonbldgs.com/MapCity.cfm?FindCity=118
Miracle Steel: (ROD) http://www.miracletruss.com/storage.html
If you do buy a kit, Annie the CCKW-Schield-Bantam crane will be
roadworthy by the summer...
Good luck!
Steve AKA Dr Deuce
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron" <rojoha@comcast.net>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2004 4:08 PM
Subject: [MV] Shop Building recommendations
> Saint Deborah has given permission for the purchase of a BIG
shop/garage
> building- 40'x60' or so, two story, for storage and hiding of my
collection
> (M35A2, M1010, M715, 4 M38A1s, 2 M116 trailers, 2 M101CDN trailers and an
> M105 trailer, plus parts and stuff). Oh yeah, her car is supposed to go in
> there too so she doesn't need to scrape the windshield in the morning.
> This led to investigation of the purchase of new dwelling over the
> border in New Hampshire with an existing 38'x60' wooden building that met
> the specs (with a 600 amp single phase service!), but the owner had cut
half
> of the second floor out with a chain saw and added a 15 foot door so he
> could back his tractor and semi trailer inside. Unfortunately, it is not
a
> metal framed building so it's structural integrity is now toast. Plus she
> didn't care for the mods the owner had pulled on the house. Unconventional
> to say the least. He don't need no stinking building permits!
> But we are continuing the search for a new dwelling with land that I
can
> put the BIG building on and/or has an existing barn/garage already on it.
> She realizes we could fit a 40'x60' on our existing lot, but we won't be
> talking to our neighbors any more afterward.
> So, I am sure a few of you have traveled the big building road before
> and can offer some recommendations. This needs to be semi attractive (at
> least so far) to the neighbors. So how about sources for buildings you
have
> purchased to fill the need?
> I will want to heat a part of it for shop use year round, the rest
would
> be unheated. What is the preferred method of heating for the shop part:
> Gas/hot air, gas/infra red, salamanders or oil fired/hot air? Southern New
> Hampshire area, so it WILL get cold.
> Minimum electrical specs you folks feel is necessary or would be nice?
> What about the concrete floor? How thick is recommended? How deep
should
> the soil prep be ( compaction, minimum gravel depth under slab)?
> How about service lifts for the lighter vehicles?
> Should the job be farmed out to an architect, or the building
> manufacturer or a regular contractor?
> Any books or online articles covering these types of things you have
> come across?
>
> Questions, questions.....
> Any help would be appreciated, off list replies are fine.
>
> TIA, Ron
>
>
>
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